Bahir Dar and Lake Tana

Bahir Dar is a calm city on the southern shore of Lake Tana, Ethiopia's largest lake and the source of the Blue Nile. Its waterfront is lined with palms and jacarandas, and from here the Blue Nile sets out on its long journey to Sudan and Egypt.

The lake holds islands with old monasteries, some centuries old, their walls covered in colourful religious paintings, visited by boat in half a day.

About 30 kilometres away are the Blue Nile Falls, known locally as Tis Abay, smoking water, at their fullest after the rains, between August and October.

Bahir Dar lies in the Amhara region, to which official travel advice currently says not to travel; we arrange visits only when that advice changes.