Tirana

Tirana became Albania's capital in 1920 and is today a young, colourful city ringed by mountains. At its heart is Skanderbeg Square, a broad stone-paved square given over to pedestrians, overlooked by the statue of the national hero Skanderbeg, the National History Museum, the Clock Tower and the painted Et'hem Bey Mosque.

From the edge of the city the Dajti Ekspres cable car climbs Mount Dajti in about 15 minutes, with views over Tirana and the plain to the sea. The city also has the Pyramid, restored as a youth centre with steps you can climb, the café district of Blloku, and the New Bazaar with its fruit and honey stalls.

Tirana is a comfortable base for day trips: Krujë castle and its old bazaar are about an hour away, the Roman amphitheatre and beach of Durrës about 40 minutes, and Berat two hours.