The Phi Phi islands lie between Phuket and Krabi. The best known, uninhabited Phi Phi Leh, holds Maya Bay, a white beach walled by high limestone cliffs. The bay is now strictly protected: swimming inside it is not allowed, visitors land by a boardwalk at the back, and it closes every year in August and September so the reef can recover.

We arrange a private boat that leaves early, ahead of the tour groups, with stops for snorkelling in nearby coves.