You climb to the castle to see its long stone galleries, clock tower and weapons museum, then walk down to the old bazaar, with lanes paved in white and grey stone and shops of carpets, copper and embroidery. The visit ends at the Skenduli House, an Ottoman tower house that keeps its furniture and its winter and summer rooms.

Gjirokastër is an hour and a quarter from Sarandë; we arrange a morning visit with lunch in town.